Flanges are used to mount to a hole in the wall to create a collar that you can slide your ducting onto.
Y - Splitter
Splitters are great to put in front of a fan if you are splitting that air into two runs of grow lights. The 45-degree angle allows airflow to be split with far less resistance than a tee.
Duct clamps create an airtight seal, so that your ducting stays connected, and air pressure is not lost
Hard ducting is a bit more expensive, but it creates the best throughput on airflow, due to the fact that it is smooth on the inside, instead of ribbed like soft ducting. All of those ribs create what is known as static pressure and will mean less air making it through your venting.
Soft ducting is the most common type of ducting in gardening. It is fairly inexpensive and generally comes in runs of 25 feet.
Elbows, also referred to as nineties, are for when you need to turn your ducting 90 degrees. These are great for corners of a room. These are better to use than just bending your ducting, as that will create a concave in the soft ducting that will greatly reduce airflow.
Tees are great for splitting airflow in two directions, but because of their directness, they can cause a bit of static pressure or back pressure.
Insulated Soft Duct
Insulated ducting costs a little more, but is well worth it, because without it, hot air being removed from a source (like a light) can easily be reintroduced to the room through thin ducting before it gets a chance to travel out.
Double Wall Duct
Double wall ducting is only really useful when hooking up watercooled CO2 burners, as the top hole in the machine is made to use double wall ducting. This works really well if you want to mount your water-cooled burner outside of your grow room and vent only the CO2 air into your room.
Mainly used as roof vents, the wide base on this piece allows you to put shingles or roof dressing on the sides.
In case you can’t find flanges, these will do. Just slide them into your hole, bend the tabs all around to make it stay in place, and sleeve your ducting up to it. Put a couple of screws through it to better hold it in place.
Duct caps are great if you remove a run of lights but don’t want to redo your entire ducting system.
Centrifugal fans are the preferred method for cooling grow lights and grow rooms. These powerful fans don’t lose their “oomph” when they meet elaborate ducting or filters.
These are great for taking an 8- or 10-inch fan and connecting it to a reflector with a 6-inch intake. They make these in pretty much all sizes relevant to growing.
These are awesome for when you have some turns and splits in your ductwork and just want a little assistance pulling the air through. These are not generally powerful enough to cool grow lights, but are excellent for assisting devices like the Advanced Nutrients BaddAss Blower®.
Registers are nice for matching typical home A/C or heat ducting. Plus, they’re less obvious to outsiders than round ducting.
Plenums are great for covering a window and creating a sleeve to attach your ductwork. This is also a great piece to enclose the back end of a chiller or window air conditioner for exhausting the heat.
Duct connectors are awesome when you come up short on a run of soft ducting and just need a few more feet to get wherever you are trying to push or pull air from.
Although this tape is more expensive than duct tape, it can stand up to heat and not lose its sticking ability.
Some of the most useful stuff on the planet, this is the choice tape for anything cold air-related.
Dampers close ducting when air is flowing in more than one direction, helping prevent outside particles and pathogens from flowing back in.
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Tuesday, 18 February 2014