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Easy Ways to Increase Your Hydroponics Yield

It occurs between grow phase and bloom phase and is often called “pre-flowering phase.” It occurs between grow phase and bloom phase and is often called “pre-flowering phase.”

Until I talked to a grand master grower who set me right, I did what most growers do when they switch their plants to 12 hour lighting to trigger bloom phase:  one day I’d be using Grow fertilizer and 18-24 hours of light, and then the next day I switched to 12 hours of light and started using Bloom base nutrients fertilizer.

A few weeks into bloom phase I added a bloom booster to my base nutrients. When the flowers were ready, I harvested.  That’s how many growers do it.

Lucky for me, I talked to a grand master grower who explained that your plants can give you much larger, and much more valuable harvests if you understand and take advantage of the many sub-phases that your crops go through under the generic umbrella of grow phase and bloom phase.

Today I want to focus with you on a phase most growers don’t know about. It occurs between grow phase and bloom phase and is often called “pre-flowering phase.” This particular article will detail nutrients during pre-flowering. Stay tuned to Rosebud for other important aspects of pre-flowering that will help you get your biggest yields ever.

My grand master friend says pre-flowering starts in the last week before you set your light timer to 12 hours and continues until your plants have set their flowers. This is usually 2-3 weeks after you set your lights to 12 hours; actual time varies depending on the strain you’re growing.

The first thing you do is use a half-strength cleansing/flushing formula in a flush program the day before shifting to 12 hour lighting. This removes excess nitrogen and other fertilizer salts left over from grow phase. You want a fresh palette for your roots so you can immediately install ideal bud-building ingredients into your plants.

After the flush, it’s time for you to create a special batch of pre-flowering nutrients. These include a multiple-chelated base nutrients formula designed specifically for your plants, a phosphorus-potassium formula that creates early floral development and multiple budding sites, a small amount of Vitamin B complexes, and an organic kelp product.

Run this through your plants for a couple of days at around 1000 ppm while monitoring your run-off water to see if it’s within your ideal pH and ppm range. As always, if you see a significant difference (more than 2 pH points or more than 500 ppm points) between your nutrients solution going in and your draining nutrient solution, you might want to troubleshoot that to figure out why.

As your plants get used to bloom nutrients and 12 hour lighting, give them less water than you did during grow phase, and especially make sure not to leave their root zone inordinately wet at lights out time.

Using this special pre-flowering formulation, you’ll notice faster development of budding sites, and more budding sites.

By the time you have early flowers that are beginning to fill in stem length to make solid, dense flowers, you are finished with your pre-flowering phase and you can transition to a peak flowering phase that features a different line-up of nutrients that are the ones most appropriate to the part of bloom phase during which your plants pack on the most quality and weight. 

We’ll talk more about that in another article, but the good news is by handling pre-flowering nutrition the way grand master growers do, you’re guaranteed to increase your harvest size, crop maturation rates, and harvest quality.

Also note that hydroponics scientists have developed a bloom phase nutrients system and feed chart that standardizes mixing and formulations so you feed your plants sub-phase specific ingredients throughout bloom phase. This exciting system is slated to be available later this year, and it’ll to eliminate time, expense and hassle while improving your gardening rewards.

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Last modified on Wednesday, 03 November 2010 23:25

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